Vish Vishvanath - Photographer.
The House at 18 Rue François Martin

The family home, Pondicherry

1 / A memento of my grandfather

When my grandfather sold his tobacco business in East Africa, it made him a very wealthy man. And he came to Pondicherry with his eleven children, gave nearly all his money to the Ashram, and in return they promised they would look after his family for ever. This is the house he lived in. This is our house.

My elderly aunts now live here. My eldest aunt, indeed the eldest of all the siblings, lived here until she was forced into permanent exile by a broken hip, lying on a bed in the Ashram hospital on the oceanfront until she finally passed away, almost 89 years old. The house is almost a prison for my aunts who still live there, and who knows how long the ashram will allow us to keep it, now that new management has replaced the dead and forgotten leaders.

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Anonymous trunk of curios. Anything valuable has long been pilfered by my eldest and youngest uncles. Only one of them is left and with luck, he'll be dead soon and discover that you can't take it with you.
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All the downstairs windows have grills or bars. Fifty metres down that street and you're in the Indian Ocean.
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Facing North. All the windows are barred.
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It all fades a little more every year...
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Upstairs, The Mother is always watching, reminding us to be good.
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Upstairs. No one stays here now, except my cousin and my father on their yearly visits.
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The ubiquitous ceiling fan - we'd fry without it.
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Facing North-West.
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The upstairs kitchen - protection against squirrels - they cause havoc if they get in.
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Upstairs again.
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The sink where I used to have frequent nosebleeds as a nine-year old.
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As I said, no one uses the upstairs kitchen anymore.
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Possibly from my grandparents' era - the table, that is. The little stereo is probably way older.
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Pretty much every appliance needs some form of voltage regulator between in and the mains. Even if it's not plugged in, apparently.
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The window hasn't been opened for some time, apparently.
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This is how drainage works. Very simply.
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The shower is still pretty good in the heat.
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The mother.
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There's still some pretty cool furniture around upstairs.
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My eldest aunt's chair.
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The front door was damaged during a break-in, but the ashram are useless at getting things fixed, hence the state of the house. My aunt is paying for it herself.
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Replacing the front door.
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One of the workmen replacing the front door.
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Ancient furniture from my grandparents' time.
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Through the main front door at 18 Rue François Martin
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Steps from the dining room to the outside and upper floor.
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The Mother and Sri Aurobindo are everywhere.
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My father and my aunt, supervising the workmen replacing the door.
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Old bakelite switches have a certain charm, and a solid click.
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My grandfather's samathi.
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Well into her eighties, my aunt Laxmi is the artist in the family - sculpture, painting, embroidery, origami - this is a sari she's working on.
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I don't know when quartz clocks became popular, but there's a faint chance this did come from Africa, since my grandfather was a major ivory and tobacco merchant... one of the biggest, apparently. There's some elephant tusks kicking around this house, I'm led to believe.
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Opposite the downstairs kitchen, the slab covered thing is a well - although I have never seen it uncovered, nor can I lift the concrete slab to investigate.
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Replacing the front door.
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Previously my eldest aunt's room.
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The two remaining aunts in this house watch TV here.
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